# Vacuum sealed bags vs mylar with oxygen absorbers

Source: https://freezeandseal.com/blog/vacuum-sealing-vs-mylar-bags
Published: 2026-10-09
Publisher: Freeze & Seal

**Short answer:** Standard vacuum bags are clear plastic that removes air at sealing but lets light through and slowly passes oxygen, so they suit the freezer and short to medium pantry storage. Mylar with an oxygen absorber blocks light and oxygen far better, so it is the usual choice for long term storage of very dry foods like freeze dried meals, rice and beans. For the freezer, vacuum bags win; for the long term pantry, mylar wins.

This page is for anyone packaging freeze dried food, dry staples or garden harvests and deciding between plastic vacuum bags and mylar pouches with oxygen absorbers. It compares the oxygen and light barrier, puncture risk with sharp foods, what each needs from your sealer, and the food safety limits that apply to both. Sealer specs come only from Amazon listings. Storage times on this site are labeled by source, and any very long shelf life figure for freeze dried food is a maker claim, not a USDA number.

## How each method removes oxygen

A vacuum sealer pulls air out of the bag and heat seals it. Most of the oxygen goes with the air at the moment of sealing. Standard vacuum bags are made of layered plastics such as polyethylene and nylon. They are clear, flexible and good in the freezer, but plastic film is not a perfect oxygen barrier, so a small amount of oxygen can work its way back in over months.

Mylar bags are metallized or foil laminate pouches. You fill the bag, add an oxygen absorber sized to the bag and contents, and heat seal it. The absorber, usually iron powder in a sachet, binds the oxygen left in the bag, and the metal layer keeps new oxygen and light out. The bag often pulls in snugly over a day or two as the oxygen is used up. See the [oxygen absorber size chart](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/oxygen-absorber-size-chart) for sizing.

## Side by side

Many people combine the two: vacuum seal small portions, then put several in a mylar bag with an absorber for the pantry. That protects against punctures and light at the same time.

| Factor | Vacuum sealed plastic bags | Mylar with oxygen absorber |
| --- | --- | --- |
| Oxygen barrier | Good at sealing, slowly permeable over time | Very low oxygen transfer through the foil layer |
| Light barrier | None, clear film | Blocks light |
| Puncture risk | Higher; vacuum pulls film tight on sharp edges | Lower; bag is not crushed tight, thicker film |
| Can you see the food | Yes | No, label everything |
| Freezer use | Excellent, the standard choice | Possible but not needed |
| Best foods | Raw meat, fish, cheese, cooked portions for fridge or freezer | Very dry foods: freeze dried meals, rice, beans, flour, dried fruit |
| Sealer needed | Edge sealer with textured bags, or chamber sealer with smooth bags | Heat sealer, iron, or a sealer rated for mylar thickness |

Vacuum bags vs mylar with oxygen absorbers

## Puncture risk with freeze dried and dry foods

Freeze dried food is light and brittle with sharp corners, and dry pasta, rice and jerky edges can poke through film. A vacuum sealer pulls plastic tight around those edges, which is when pinholes happen. Once a vacuum bag has a pinhole, it slowly fills with air and moisture, and freeze dried food reabsorbs water. Freeze dried food also gets crushed into powder by a hard vacuum.

Mylar with an absorber avoids the hard squeeze. If you do vacuum seal freeze dried food, use a gentle or pulse setting, wrap sharp items in paper first, or cushion them. Our [how to store freeze dried food](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/how-to-store-freeze-dried-food) page walks through packaging, and [how long freeze dried food lasts](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/how-long-does-freeze-dried-food-last) covers the claims.

## Sealers for each method, from the listings

Mylar is smooth, so an edge sealer cannot pull a vacuum through it; you seal it with heat only or use a chamber sealer. These listings state what each model handles.

| Model | Type | Seal bar (listed) | Mylar (per listing) | Other listed details |
| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- |
| LEM MaxVac Pro (mylar bundle) | Chamber | 11.42 in, dual 2.5 mm seals | Compatible; includes 50 mylar and 80 chamber bags | Vacuum 15 to 60 sec, seal 3 to 9 sec; maintenance free pump; canister port |
| VacMaster VP95 | Chamber | 9.25 in | Double seals 5 and 7 mil mylar | 1/5 HP oil pump; chamber 9.5 x 10.5 x 3.25 in; max bag 9 x 12 in |
| LEM MaxVac 1000 | Edge | 14 in, 5 mm wide seal | Not stated | 24Hg vacuum; cooling fan; manual vacuum and manual seal controls |

Listing facts

Note: A wide seal bar with a manual seal button can heat seal mylar on many edge sealers, but the LEM MaxVac 1000 listing does not mention mylar. Test on a scrap bag and check the seal for wrinkles.

[Best vacuum sealers for mylar bags](https://freezeandseal.com/best/best-chamber-vacuum-sealer-for-mylar-bags)

## Food safety limits for both methods

Low oxygen packaging at room temperature is only safe for dry foods. Moist foods sealed without oxygen and kept warm can allow Clostridium botulinum to grow. Only put fully dry, shelf stable foods into mylar with absorbers for the pantry: freeze dried food that is crisp all the way through, dry grains, dry beans and properly dried fruit. If freeze dried food is chewy or sticky, it is not dry; see [freeze dried food not dry](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/freeze-dried-food-not-dry).

Vacuum sealed raw meat, fish, cheese and cooked leftovers are not shelf stable either. USDA FSIS guidance is that they still need the fridge at 40 F or below or the freezer at 0 F. Vacuum sealing protects quality and helps prevent [freezer burn](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/freezer-burn-prevention); it does not replace cold storage. Check published times with the [storage life table](https://freezeandseal.com/tools/storage-life-table) and our page on [vacuum sealed meat](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/how-long-does-vacuum-sealed-meat-last).

Note: Never seal garlic or herbs in oil, fresh mushrooms or cooked soups in low oxygen packaging at room temperature.

## Which pairing to use

For the full picture of preservation methods, see [food preservation methods compared](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/food-preservation-methods-compared) and the [storage and shelf life stage](https://freezeandseal.com/stage/storage-and-shelf-life).

- Freezer meat, fish and meal portions: vacuum sealed plastic bags.
- Freeze dried meals for long pantry storage: mylar with an oxygen absorber, sealed with heat or a mylar rated chamber sealer.
- Rice, beans, flour and other dry staples: mylar with an absorber, often inside a bucket for rodent and puncture protection.
- Snacks you will eat within weeks: vacuum bags or jars are fine, kept cool and dark.
- Dehydrated fruit and jerky: dry fully first, then store cool and dark; see [what can you dehydrate](https://freezeandseal.com/blog/what-can-you-dehydrate).

## Frequently asked questions

**Can I vacuum seal a mylar bag?** With a chamber sealer, yes, if the machine is rated for the bag thickness; the VacMaster VP95 listing names 5 and 7 mil mylar. An edge sealer cannot pull air through smooth mylar, but many can heat seal it.

**Do I need oxygen absorbers in vacuum bags?** Usually not for the freezer. For pantry storage of dry food, mylar with an absorber is the better barrier.

**How long does food last in mylar?** It depends on the food and storage temperature. Harvest Right states up to 25 years for freeze dried food in mylar with an absorber, but that is a maker claim, not a USDA figure.

**Why did my mylar bag not suck in?** The absorber may be undersized, already used up from air exposure, or the seal may leak. Check the seal and use a fresh absorber.

## Gear guides for this topic

- https://freezeandseal.com/best/best-chamber-vacuum-sealer-for-mylar-bags
- https://freezeandseal.com/best/best-vacuum-sealer
- https://freezeandseal.com/best/best-chamber-vacuum-sealer

## Sources

- [USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service](https://www.fsis.usda.gov/)
- [National Center for Home Food Preservation](https://nchfp.uga.edu/)
